Zeus+Dione – Autumn/Winter 2023 Callas Collection

Envisage a woman of remarkable power. Her absolute command of the striking, classicizing gesture; the use of those remarkable eyes. A gaze that leaves an indelible imprint on your mind; her sweeping arc of pitch black eyeliner, extending from the inner corner of her eye to pointed precision at the tail end of her eyebrow.

There it is, paired with a lacquered dark-red lip —a look so impactful and instantly iconic. Her presence permeates every moment. She seethes with the commitment and intensity that would make her so ferocious and imperious one moment, fearful and broken the next. Her dry humour, her poise and her alluring voice. Strong, pure and infused with magic that cannot be explained. Τhe expressive intensity, the sincere and profound emotions of fury, remorse, grief, resolve and ecstasy at levels beyond what others seem able to feel or express. There’s a truth in her emotions. And she’s able to translate that into a supernatural sound.


For the Fall Winter season of ’23, Zeus+Δione retraces the riveting persona of Maria Callas, in an ultramodernvein. All her distinctive, dark traits are now revealed in vibrant colours through the visual perception of
Marios Schwab. Maintaining his signature minimalist colour palette upon an intricate use of effervescent shades; pops of emerald green, teal blue and ruby red join the earthy light camel, white gold and black ‘melodramatic’ tones. Supple, fluid fabrics encapsulate cuts, sharp pleats striped with contrasting webbing, ruching and draping that adapt to the body instead of constraining it. Plush velvet, epitomizing the soprano’s velvety voice, provides richness and depth to the garment. Airy gauze in black and ivory is inspirited by the abstract, archaic dress of Pier Paolo Pasolini’s Medea, whose white, red and black tones refer to the ancient Greek vases. The smooth and crisp technical taffeta and the prime shearling make a strong case for wearable sculptures. The signature Z+Δ ‘Spathoto’ silk has been woven in emerald green and ruby red hues, while striped silk and iridescent leather emanate a shimmering finish.

A wondrous pleated cape-effect gown inspired by the final scene of Lucia di Lammermoor at La Scala in 1955, recalls the airy, sleek designs of Belle Époque stage drama. Dresses in flattering bodycon designs work like a second skin, straps cross over and embosom the bodice resembling chain links, while perfectly round embroidered pearls bring in the 3D element. Elaborate Armenian fringing acts as an extension of the seams of the garments, underlining their structural lines. Peek-a-boo trench coats in traditional longline shapes are standing out accented with accordion pleating at the back, or re-imagined in bomber silhouettes with exaggerated collars for extra warmth. Ignoring the constraints of classical tailoring, straight-leg pants made of drill wool fall to cropped hems along with their coordinating cropped jacket. An oversized paisley panel adorns the back of a blazer, whilst paisley cut-outs serve as armholes in voluminous capes, allowing liberty of movement.

The ‘wabi-sabi’ aesthetic of baroque pearls and the Z+Δ distinct paisley motif spill over to the jewellery collection, by imbuing it with an everlasting appeal. Roses and cloves have been dipped into silver composing electroformed creations that feel audaciously modern. Infusing art, craftsmanship and history, earrings have been carefully hammered and etched to resemble an updated version of the Artemis’ silver bow and arrow.


Learn More


With love,


Follow Fashion Week Online® on Instagram for exclusive content

You may also enjoy ...

Fireboy DML & Clarks Originals Host Metaverse Concert

Clarks is stepping into the Metaverse, in partnership with Empire Music, giving global music fans the chance to enjoy an immersive concert with beloved...

Ellen Von Unwerth Shoots New Honey Birdette Campaign

Honey Birdette is back at it with legendary fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth who shot the luxury lingerie retailer's most recent campaign, titled ‘On...

A Letter To My Sisters: A Breast Cancer Documentary For Young Women

My name is Dr. Nia Imani Bailey, DPA, M.A.Ed., RT(T), and I am the founder of Smiley 91 LLC. We have a wonderful and...