Just Black, Olesya Sakhro, The Queen Space, The Raven Goddess, Ammia VOR Makeup
A group of talented designers came together at this season’s Milan Fashion Week for Emerging Talents Milan Spring-Summer 2023.
"Arubani SS23" collection
ARUBANI was the Urartian goddess of fertility and art, and the wife of Khaldi. She is the inspiration of the ARUBANI SS22/23 collection released by designer Gaia Manoukian (Just Black Brand).
Arubani is the Urartian equivalent to the Armenian goddess Anahit and the Greek goddess Artemis.
When thinking over the patterns and ornaments, we took as inspiration the details on the figurine of Arubani (based on Erebouni National Historical Museum). That shows eight-side-squares with a four pointed star or water lily (native to Armenia) in the center, and a large chain and medallion on her chest.
Also we found out that silk fragments found in the temple precinct at Erebouni (Yerevan, the Capital of Armenia), that is why most looks of ARUBANI collection are made of the finest materials such as silk.
The patterns and prints on fabrics are taken from the figurine of Arubani, (Urartian cuneiform script) and frescoes found in Erebouni Museum. The colors are based on the mostly used colors of Urartian manuscripts;
Shoes are recreated from the museum items with engravings and metallic elements used in Urartian period. Collection also includes homeware, interior decoration elements, accessories and jewelry.
Collection is also inspired by 4 Urartian words that are inscripted in the looks, colors, forms and prints.
THE QUEEN SPACE
Everlasting Delight by Wendy Huang
The inspiration of this collection comes from the collision of “hard and soft”. The overall silhouette is figure flattering. Echoing the inspiration, the collection features both sharp straight lines and smooth, feminine arcs. By extracting the structure from art pieces and incorporating the lines of the human body structure, this collection recombines straight lines and curves, presenting more possibilities of lines and segmentation on garment. The collection applies elements of Rococo style fashion from 1750 to 1775, adding a lot of ruffles and shirring. The overall feeling of this collection is feminine and exquisite. Unlike the gorgeous dresses of the Rococo period, this collection jumps out and presents the Rococo romance in a modern way conveying the message of unlimited women power and the everlasting pursue of happiness.
The Wandering Dream Maker by Zhao Yuhe
This collection was inspired by my childhood memories of my mother. She has a coat with wide shoulders and tiny waist which only be worn in Chinese New Year and festivals. Life was hard, but she can always give life a sense of occasion. She is always the one who reminds me to use kindness to create beauty in life. So in this collection, it will be mainly designed in terms of tailoring and clothing silhouette based on my mother’s coat, combining imagery from my childhood living environment to design prints and do styling. Regenerated clothing will also be added to echo the brand’s thinking on people and nature. I want to remind myself to keep the love of life and try to explore more possibilities of fashion through this journey.
La Ghinga by Romy Calzado
Cuban art deco became the inspiration for the capsule collection ‘la ghinga’. The volumes and motifs have been interpreted through the use of fabrics that recall the aesthetics of Art deco, with openwork and two-colors in line with the trends. Imposing architectures such as the Lopez Serrano building, characterized by windows that create a play of geometric holes with refined two-colors that we find in cotton and viscose blend lace. Alongside the architecture, art decò is characterized by the two-tone checkerboard decorative motifs, taken from the use of the gimgham seersucker fabric, which, crippled from English, becomes the Ghinga in Spanish. The round-shaped 3d jersey continues the leitmotif of the textures and geometries of the collection. The lines are simple with some more voluminous garments in line with the extroverted and solar spirit of the island.
Finally, a brightly colored checkered pattern will be printed on a linen and viscose base
THE RAVENS GODDESS
THE RAVENS GODDESS is a little one-woman brand from North Italy, founded by Corinne. In this collection, she wants to enclose her love for the past, especially for the Victorian Era, but making it more modern: corsets made with gorgeous shantung and brocade fabrics, decorated with fine lace and rhinestones, combined with fluffy tulle and organza skirts. Everything is handcrafted in the smallest details and carefully studied: from the first sketch, to the choice of the materials and the study of the shapes and decorations. The Ravens Goddess is a mix of passion for historical clothes with a modern fantasy vision of the world.
The brand Sakhro was created in 2016 by embroidery artist Olesya Sakhro. Embroidery has since become the integral aspect of each collection purse.
Art can take many forms and embroidery is no exception. By researching and analyzing different embroidery techniques and cultural patterns, she has developed a deeper understanding in this field and created her own unique technique that was successfully deployed on her purses.
Each of them is permeated with love of traditional culture, all the while being stylish and trendy. The process of handcrafting has become a tool of conveying a deeply creative content within each product.
In essence, every purse is an iconic and recognisable piece of art which speaks for itself and on behalf of its designer. Olesya is creating unique artwork, each possessing its own history, energy, character, and originality, all the while being capricious and tempting. It is no wonder that, anyone who comes into contact with this marvel, is asking the same question: “how?” At the same time, they would be involuntarily attempting to touch its fabric.
Ammía, a me, a Sicilian word that indicates the desire to “have” and “receive” at the same time. The intensity, almost craving, takes shape with Ammía – Sicily on me, the expression that becomes bag and accessory with the soul of the Sicilian woman inside.
Cinzia Franzò has been working for more than 20 years in the fashion industry. Her passion for fashion is so strong that it pushes her to experiment. In fact, in the fall of 2017 she has launched a new brand capable of telling the woman through female figures of the Sicilian tradition.
From carrettu to bags
If in the past Sicilian carts carried with them the myths and legends of the area, today the bags and accessories are telling those scenes.
In the workshop of the Sicilian masters, among brushes, colors and chivalrous scenes we can see them working and guarding a now dying art: Sicilian carts painting. They are the ones who make the paintings imprinted on bags and accessories, transforming them into precious traveling canvases
VOR Make-Up emphasizes the personality, the uniqueness of each person, his experience, his soul, his essence. A world shaped by stories and experiences that, like in a relay race, cross spaces, times, places and generations. External beauty becomes the mirror of inner well-being, of daily gestures that, with make-up and quality products, color the days, the laughter, the complicity between similar but unique people. The skin is an envelope that preserves sensations collected over time but which remain young forever.
Art Director: Tariel Bisharyan
Head Fashion Stylist: Russ Ev
Beauty Director and Key Makeup Artist: Valeria Orlando
Makeup Sponsor: VOR Makeup
Key Hair Stylist: Marcello Costa
Backstage Director: Giuliana Bortolato
Lighting and Set: Family Studio Srl
Shoe Partners: Salvatore Caputo Shoes